Jan 08

Tobago Cays – the best place inthe world to see the stars?

by in Indulgence

They say the Tabago Cays is one of the best places in the world to see the stars. Besides looking at the infinite constellations in the night sky I didn’t recognise anyone in the super yachts that surrounded Indulgence.

This haven of islets is a marine heritage site, and between the horseshoe reef and the uninhabited islands is the protected Baradal turtle sanctuary where green and hawksbill turtles forage freely. Snorkelling with these ancient mammals was one of the most beautiful experiences I have had in a long time. They are pretty fast when they get going and I realised there was little point in chasing them too much, not to mind try and touch their decorative shells. The trick was to stay on the surface as they fed on the seagrass, just waiting and watching. They laze along the seabed and then come up for air. If you kept your distance you could swim along easily as they glided past and popped up for air before diving back down again. The turtles were as large as a human torso and when you think about it, as old as myself, if not older! What a life, for both of us.

We visited the turtle sanctuary with a local ‘boat boy’ called Carlos. Boat boy is a light term for this broad hulk of a man. He also brought us to Petit Tabac, a strip of white sand and palm trees within the Cays where scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed. If only Johnny Depp was here now, none of us girls would have complained about being stranded on this little strip of paradise. Ironically we nearly were, as Carlos launched the boat and his engine failed to start. His newly purchased fuel had been contaminated and all eight of us sat helpless as his boat drifted out towards the reef. Carlos tried and tried, as did all the boys on board, except, on our poor ‘white man’ attempts, the pull chord would only come half way. Hulk capabilities were the only answer, so when another local boat boy came to the rescue, we were all relieved and after twenty minutes both of them eventually managed to start the engine again. No longer was the reef a threat, and the paranoia subsided.

Due to the high season, the anchorage itself was pretty crowded. In a way it took from the picture postcard that you seek in the Caribbean, but it’s easy to understand why everyone wants this little bit of paradise. We found a quieter spot by anchoring in behind Petit Rameau and still staying close enough to the channel. Looking out at the rest of the boats which sat on mooring buoys, I thought to myself there was as many anchor lights as stars. For me, the best star gazing grounds must been mid ocean where the endless nights displayed endless shooting stars and you could see the milky way lit up like a highway. Those are the nights I will always appreciate.

One Response to “Tobago Cays – the best place inthe world to see the stars?”

  1. From Julie:

    My medulla oblongata is in overdrive with jealousy. (Wasn’t reading a dictionary, was watching The Waterboy and learned a new word haha)
    I’m so happy ye are all having the time of yer lives-I think I need to come out in March and experience it for myself :)

    Posted on January 9, 2013 at 7:49 am #

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